Carménère, along with Merlot, were brought to Chile in the nineteenth century, both loving the warm and dry climate. Rumour has it that no one knew Carménère had been planted, and that it was only Merlot that had taken root, giving the mistaken grapes its own name: Merlot Peumal (located in the Peumo Vallery in Chile). It wasn't until the mid-90s when DNA analysis was done, did it come to light that Carménère was the 'other' grape. Today, Chile maintains the largest planting of Carménère in the world, recognised as an official variety of Chile in 1998.

The Carménère grape is a staple for South America, in fact, with an International Carménère Day being celebrated on the continent every 24 November! Other regions around the world also grow small quantities, including Italy, Washington, California, Canada, New Zealand and Australia. China's own Jaidon Region grows the variety under the name Cabernet Genrischt.

But the grape has also made a comeback in Frace. As mentioned, they were wiped out in 1850, but in 1947 they made a small return. Now in 2024, there are at least 60 hectares of Carménère growing in Bordeaux, which I predict will grow! The variety can be found in Pauillac at Chateau Mouton Rothschild and Château Clerc Milon. Chateau Potensac in the Médoc has about 2% of its vineyard planted with Carmenère. In the 2011 Bordeaux vintage, Chateau Brane-Cantenac, located in the Margaux appellation, included a small amount (0.5%) of Carménère in its final blend for the first time.

100% Carménère wines can be found well in Bordeaux, Chateau Le Geai Carmenere is classified as a Bordeaux Superieur and Château Lapeyronie Carmenere from Côtes de Castillon, Chateau Carmenere in Medoc, Trace Carmenere in Pessac Leognan.

This is truly a special variety, with rich flavours and colour. In fact, its very name stems from the word carmine, i.e. crimson, but this actually refers to the colour of the vine's leaves which turn a purplish-red before they fall in Autumn. However, the wine itself is also deep in colours... its key descriptors are red fruit, blackberry, blueberry, spicy and green bell pepper. We can sometimes taste notes of herbal, smokiness and even chocolate and coffee. Flavour could vary depending on the ripening of the grape when it's harvested. The wine's medium tannin and fruit-driven flavour make Carménère easier to approach and pair with the food.

 

Savoring Carménère

For this tasting review, I will savour Carménère from different regions and producers, seeing how they vary.

My first wine is the San Pedro Gato Negro Carmenère; the producer, Viña San Pedro, is one of the largest and oldest exporters of Chilean wine. They have one of the most extensive vineyards in Latin America with 1200 hectares. The Gato Negro is an everyday wine: simple, young and fresh, with a straightforward fruitiness, learning to blueberries and blackberries, with a mild coffee, and spice, medium body, medium acidity, and light in tannin. It is easy to drink and very approachable.

My second wine is the San Pedro 1865 Carmenere. The 1865 name of the wine comes from honouring the year the winery was established. Made from the grapes growing in the Colchagua Valley, the wine is more complex, portraying dimensional layers for elegant yet intense aromas of ripe red fruit, cherries, plums, and blueberries. There is a notable oak influence, stemming from the 12-month oak barrel ageing. The aroma gives off notes of cedar, dark chocolate, cassis, a bit of caramel combined with fruit and sweet baking spice notes, a noticeable presence of black pepper. It's full-bodied, with a high but elegant tannin, medium acidity, perfect balance between the high alcohol and the fruitiness making the wine very enjoyable.

Santa Ema Amplus One Carmenère, 
another wine, comes from the premium region of Peumo, Cachapoal Valley, known as a prestigious area for producing fruity, big-bodied Carménère. It has a deep violet colour in appearance, and a very pronounced aroma with expressive and intense red and black berries, dry fruit, tobacco, liquorice, peppery, clover, and dark chocolate. On the palate it has a powerful, pronounced intensity of flavour, boasting medium acidity with a full body, a long finish, a very round tannin, and a beautiful velvet texture in the palate.

Another Carménère, from special terroir, is the Vina Von Siebenthal Panquehue, from the region of Aconcagua Valley, known for its granitic soil on the slopes of the Orocoipo Hills. Its production is limited to only 60,000 bottles. The region is a very special sub-region, quite small, known as one of the most exclusive and prestigious areas in Chile for the production of red and white Bordeaux varieties. This is a semi-desert area halfway between the Andes and the Pacific Ocean. The wine is a blend of grapes of Carménère 85% and Cabernet Sauvignon 15%, aged for 12 months in the barrel. It displays a very ripe red and black fruit with roasted pepper, and liquorice, medium body, high in tannin, with a smoky aroma. The texture of the wine nicely rounded the palate, with a very smooth and silky texture on the palate. The finish is long, intense and beautiful on the palate.

Saint Rita Pewen of Apalta Carménère,
exceptional wines made by Sebastián Labbé - Winemaker for Viña Santa Rita's Ultra Premium wines. He was awarded 'Winemaker Revelation 2020' by the prestigious wine guide, Descorchados. These wines are recognised as "The Best of Apalta". This exceptional wine boasts a deep purple carmine hue, on the nose its complex bouquet gracefully blends fresh black fruit with the characteristic spicy notes of the variety, the wine shows a delicate balance between the fresh fruit aroma with the combination of spicy and depth of oak influences. On the palate, it offers concentration and a refreshing quality medium acidity, high tannin, and full body with excellent structure and depth, this is a flavorful, persistent wine with strong ageing potential. It was aged in French oak barrels for 18 months, using 40% new oak and 60% second-use barrels.

My wine tasting of single Carménère is shown on the different levels of complexity, layer of flavour and depth of aroma and flavour. This tasting gives us a better picture of how human influence and terroir shape the wine on different levels.

Pairing Carmenère with food is simple, as the wine naturally compliments smoked, grilled, or roasted meats such as chicken, pork, lamb, beef, and veal. Its distinctive character also makes it an excellent match for spicy dishes and robust, hard cheeses.